I can't believe it's been over a month since I last posted - it's certainly not for a lack of activity, anyway! I should really provide some sort of summary of what hobby-linked stuff I've been up to. Over the past few weeks, I have:
Done pretty much no painting!
Okay, not a great one I'll grant you, but following my massive painting bender over Christmas I'm pretty relaxed about taking a little pause. I've focused instead on playing some games, which has been much more enjoyable.
Played a massive board game of WW2!
I have long been a fan of block board-games, and to my mind GMT Games' "Europe Engulfed" is one of the top ones - certainly the best World War Two strategic level game I've played (as opposed to the massive economic simulator that Advanced Third Reich seemed to think it was.) Over a few weekends I've been playing away at it, and - as I went along - wrote out a narrative of the game for myself. I'll tidy it down, edit it up and post it on the blog. I always find these alternative history AAR's to be fascinating reading when other people do it, so I'm finally having a go myself.
Dug out my Hundred Years' War 6mm!
BBC 4 recently had on a little three-part series which was called 'Chivalry and Betrayal: The Hundred Years' War' - and I actually found it to be very good. Also, you fundamentally don't see that many telly shows about wars of the middle ages, so thumbs-up for the Beeb simply for making it! I was also moved to get my old half-rebased, half-unpainted models from Baccus 6mm out of the loft, for a spruce-up and a possible quick mess-around in some DBA-style games.
Ordered my 1/72 Army of the Potomac!
Yes, the completed 1/72 Confederates now have an enemy to face! Or, at least they shortly will. After much obsessive planning and preparing, I have swooped across various Amazon and Ebay marketplaces to gather all my odds and ends. Due to the long gestation of the planning, I have also been able to basically get all the extras I wanted - such as the MDF bases for them all, some lead 'character' figures for generals, and also spray-paints to allow speedy mass-painting of all those blue coats.
Sunday, March 17, 2013
Monday, February 4, 2013
Anglo-Allied Infantry, 1815
Hooray, and Hoopty-doo! After a very long, long, long-running painting effort, I have reached something of a milestone in my Waterloo painting project. All the infantry for the Anglo-Allied army is now completed!
By my count, I have painted about 310 figures for 1/72 scale infantry, in order to bring the army to the tabletop. A few cavalry and gunners remain, but nothing major when compared to what's been done - not long before the Anglo-Allied army can be cleared away, and work can begin on the French one!
| The whole collection - redcoats on the left, blue-coated Dutch in the middle, and Green/Black-coated 'others' on the right. |
| British infantry and KGL - the figures have not yet been washed in a Devlan-Mud-style coat, and so look a bit bright and lacking in definition. |
| Trivia fact: I hate painting white straps! |
| Brunswicker, 95th Rifles, Hanoverian and Nassauer troops |
| Figures vary immensely, but the Airfix ones stand out as being particularly poor when compared to others, such as Revell and Italeri. |
| Dutch and Belgian troops |
Tuesday, January 1, 2013
The Army of Northern Virginia, 1863
Happy New Year! Good luck to you all for the upcoming 2013, and hopefully your 2012 was a good one.
I have a quick little update to post as I have achieved the unheard-of achievement of completing one of my projects in the same year it was started! Back in February 2012 I decided to use 1/72 plastics to play the American Civil War, and bought a bunch to create a Rebel army. I progressed them steadily all through the year, on and off, then just before New Year I managed to finish the last of them.
For interest, I put together the force on a rough one-base-per-brigade line, using the Gettysburg OoB as a guide - although pretty much any battle from 1863-5 should be do-able with some minor tweaking. Here, at least, is the original list:
R. E. Lee Army HQ
Longstreet Corps HQ
McLaws 4 Infantry Brigades
Hood 4 Infantry Brigades
Pickett 3 Infantry Brigades
Corps Arty 2 Artillery Batteries
Ewell Corps HQ
Early 4 Infantry Brigades
Johnson 4 Infantry Brigades
Rodes 5 Infantry Brigades
Corps Arty 2 Artillery Batteries
A.P. Hill Corps HQ
Anderson 5 Infantry Brigades
Heth 4 Infantry Brigades
Pender 4 Infantry Brigades
Corps Arty 2 Artillery Batteries
J.E.B. Stuart Corps HQ (Cavalry)
Lee 2 Cavalry Brigades
Hampton 2 Cavalry Brigades
(total 37 Inf, 4 Cav, 6 Arty)
I have a quick little update to post as I have achieved the unheard-of achievement of completing one of my projects in the same year it was started! Back in February 2012 I decided to use 1/72 plastics to play the American Civil War, and bought a bunch to create a Rebel army. I progressed them steadily all through the year, on and off, then just before New Year I managed to finish the last of them.
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| The Full Force. Sadly due to the dark evenings, I have struggled to get good pics of them all, due to the lack of matural light! |
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| Longstreet with his Corps. These were the first ones finished, and were posted some time back as pretty much the only 'update' on this project while it ran away in the background. |
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| A.P. Hill's Corps, plus the army HQ of General Lee |
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| Yet more infantry. I based them DBA-style, four figures to a base. The varied poses of the Italeri figures gives the rebels a suitably ramshackle appearance. |
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| I also picked up a pile of resin 'entrenchments' at the Claymore 2012 show back in August, so I have painted them up for use as well, given their increased usage in 1864-5 by the ANV. |
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| The entire army - now I just need to collect the Union for them to fight! |
R. E. Lee Army HQ
Longstreet Corps HQ
McLaws 4 Infantry Brigades
Hood 4 Infantry Brigades
Pickett 3 Infantry Brigades
Corps Arty 2 Artillery Batteries
Ewell Corps HQ
Early 4 Infantry Brigades
Johnson 4 Infantry Brigades
Rodes 5 Infantry Brigades
Corps Arty 2 Artillery Batteries
A.P. Hill Corps HQ
Anderson 5 Infantry Brigades
Heth 4 Infantry Brigades
Pender 4 Infantry Brigades
Corps Arty 2 Artillery Batteries
J.E.B. Stuart Corps HQ (Cavalry)
Lee 2 Cavalry Brigades
Hampton 2 Cavalry Brigades
(total 37 Inf, 4 Cav, 6 Arty)
Friday, December 21, 2012
Bloody Barons Review
I've been so busy with 'Real Life' recently - Christmas preparation, work crisis to fend off, etc. As such it's been a while since I got any hobby-ish activities done. Still, that's me off now for 2 weeks over Christmas and the New Year, so hopefully I'll make up some lost time.
To make a start, in any case, I thought I'd post some info on the recently-used 'Wars of the Roses' rules set 'Bloody Barons' by Peter Pig.
This was one that had largely skipped by me, in my occasional hunt for alternate rules-sets. I got alerted to it by a couple of references from people posting on TMP. I had a look at the Peter Pig website, and then eventually splashed out on a copy.
To take it from basics then, the game is for units typically sized at about eight bases each. The rules typically take each base as a stand of 3-odd figures in 15mm, although I have been using units of ten bases with one 28mm figure per base with no ill effects. Units are mixed, normally half billmen and half longbowmen, and all units are led by a single Captain base. As such, the units typically look good to the eye, with an armour-clad noble front-and-centre and a surrounding mix of troops with both bows and bills. These units are the typical backbone of the armies you'll field, so variety is added by grading them by quality. Household units are the picked elite for a nobleman's personal force; Retinue units are dependable veterans; and Levy are the untrained and unreliable second-rate masses. The rules also cater for other unit types such as cavalry, pike, handgunners, cannon, etc.
Generally, control is similar in style to the current trend (Warmaster Ancients, Hail Caesar, etc.) for commanders to roll for each order issued, and continuing to issue more orders until they fail a roll. This system will probably be familiar to many, and of course it works in terms of making you weigh up the urgency of various orders. One additional tweak is that an activated unit then rolls a d6 to decide how many action points it gets that turn - so even if a general activates only one unit, a good action-point roll can mean they do more than an opponent who activates many units and rolls poorly.
Combat is a simple and intuitive process - the attacker rolls a fistful of 'to hit' dice, then the defender rolls a clutch of 'saves' for each hit landed. There are a few extra rolls here and there for things like casualty application etc. but the general notion can be easily grasped and understood. Large hands of dice are common so you'll do a lot of rolling, and a simple set of modifiers plus a morale system complete the 'mechanics' of the game - which fits neatly onto a single side of A4. The game plays for a random number of turns, before 'night falls' and a winner is determined by a score of victory points.
One of the notable features in it is the method for generating scenarios. Each player gets a pool of dice, which they can then assign to categories like 'Treachery', 'Espionage', 'Supplies' and so on. Each player rolls for each category to try to build up a score, and the larger the discrepancy in scores, the more dramatic the effect on the game. This puts in a nice randomness to the setup, dependent on both out-guessing your opponents' allocations and on lucky rolls. It means games vary a lot, which prevents the 'line them up and crash the two lines headlong into each other' syndrome which can often plague WotR games.
By and large, as you can probably tell by the number of references to dice rolls above, the game is generally dominated by likelihoods - Levy are not likely to stop Household, but they technically can if they have a lucky set of rolls just as their opponent puts in a bland one - all you can do is try and contrive situations where you are likely to triumph, and take your chances. It's much more authentic than a more rigid x-always-beats-y system which many rules favour, but I know it's definitely not to the taste of some wargamers out there.
The rulebook also has the usual features such as an army-building points system, historical scenarios, painting tips, etc. In summary, it's an excellent set for swift-playing WotR battles, with lots of innovative features to keep things fresh, and has clearly been written by people who love wargaming and have designed the rules to provide an eventful game which can be concluded in an evening, and keep all parties involved throughout. I'd give it a strong 8/10 score, possibly even a 9.
To make a start, in any case, I thought I'd post some info on the recently-used 'Wars of the Roses' rules set 'Bloody Barons' by Peter Pig.
This was one that had largely skipped by me, in my occasional hunt for alternate rules-sets. I got alerted to it by a couple of references from people posting on TMP. I had a look at the Peter Pig website, and then eventually splashed out on a copy.
To take it from basics then, the game is for units typically sized at about eight bases each. The rules typically take each base as a stand of 3-odd figures in 15mm, although I have been using units of ten bases with one 28mm figure per base with no ill effects. Units are mixed, normally half billmen and half longbowmen, and all units are led by a single Captain base. As such, the units typically look good to the eye, with an armour-clad noble front-and-centre and a surrounding mix of troops with both bows and bills. These units are the typical backbone of the armies you'll field, so variety is added by grading them by quality. Household units are the picked elite for a nobleman's personal force; Retinue units are dependable veterans; and Levy are the untrained and unreliable second-rate masses. The rules also cater for other unit types such as cavalry, pike, handgunners, cannon, etc.
Generally, control is similar in style to the current trend (Warmaster Ancients, Hail Caesar, etc.) for commanders to roll for each order issued, and continuing to issue more orders until they fail a roll. This system will probably be familiar to many, and of course it works in terms of making you weigh up the urgency of various orders. One additional tweak is that an activated unit then rolls a d6 to decide how many action points it gets that turn - so even if a general activates only one unit, a good action-point roll can mean they do more than an opponent who activates many units and rolls poorly.
Combat is a simple and intuitive process - the attacker rolls a fistful of 'to hit' dice, then the defender rolls a clutch of 'saves' for each hit landed. There are a few extra rolls here and there for things like casualty application etc. but the general notion can be easily grasped and understood. Large hands of dice are common so you'll do a lot of rolling, and a simple set of modifiers plus a morale system complete the 'mechanics' of the game - which fits neatly onto a single side of A4. The game plays for a random number of turns, before 'night falls' and a winner is determined by a score of victory points.
One of the notable features in it is the method for generating scenarios. Each player gets a pool of dice, which they can then assign to categories like 'Treachery', 'Espionage', 'Supplies' and so on. Each player rolls for each category to try to build up a score, and the larger the discrepancy in scores, the more dramatic the effect on the game. This puts in a nice randomness to the setup, dependent on both out-guessing your opponents' allocations and on lucky rolls. It means games vary a lot, which prevents the 'line them up and crash the two lines headlong into each other' syndrome which can often plague WotR games.
By and large, as you can probably tell by the number of references to dice rolls above, the game is generally dominated by likelihoods - Levy are not likely to stop Household, but they technically can if they have a lucky set of rolls just as their opponent puts in a bland one - all you can do is try and contrive situations where you are likely to triumph, and take your chances. It's much more authentic than a more rigid x-always-beats-y system which many rules favour, but I know it's definitely not to the taste of some wargamers out there.
The rulebook also has the usual features such as an army-building points system, historical scenarios, painting tips, etc. In summary, it's an excellent set for swift-playing WotR battles, with lots of innovative features to keep things fresh, and has clearly been written by people who love wargaming and have designed the rules to provide an eventful game which can be concluded in an evening, and keep all parties involved throughout. I'd give it a strong 8/10 score, possibly even a 9.
Sunday, December 2, 2012
The Battle of Holmewood, 1460
Following a speedy approach march, both sides found themselves slowed by an autumn downpour. Much of the Lancastrian strength was off the field at first, and many commanders remote from their units - hurried orders to concentrate were sent out as soon as the approaching Yorkist army was detected. Similarly on the other side, the muddy roads forced the attackers to press on and attack piecemeal. They had an initial advantage in that they were seeking the battle and therefore were well provisioned with arrows, but each side would need to heavily reinforce the initial clash in order to win.
| The initial armies - Lancastrians on the lower-left, outnumbered two-to-one by the oncoming Yorkists! |
| Rutland, commanding the Yorkist Main |
| Rutland's Ward was largely retinue - the levies being left behind on the approach-march |
| Salisbury in the Vaward - his ward is small from previous losses, but he's a hardy commander |
| Somerset's Retinue troops prove dangerous, showering the oncoming Yorkists with flights of arrows. Rutland soon finds himself struggling as losses mount. |
| Somerset clearly feels on top form today! Charging boldly at the stalled Rutland, he swiftly overthrows part of their line and sends it fleeing! |
| Salisbury - if not pondering retreat, at least making sure a horse is close at hand! |
| Somerset's troops continue to batter Rutland's troops, now mowing down the late-arriving levies with longbow fire. |
| The large contingent of Scots, plus some surviving Percy troops, fight against Norfolk's men and press them hard. |
| A notable casualty! As the Yorkists collapse, the Scottish commander - Earl Douglas - is cut down in the melee while Norfolk's men fall back. |
| Somerset victorious! As morale collapses on the Yorkist side they take to their heels, leaving the Lancastrian army commander to bask in the glow of triumph! |
Sunday, November 11, 2012
Wars of The Roses - Edward's Dilemma
It's been quite a while since I posted any update on my long-running re-fight of the Wars of the Roses, so here's the latest installment.
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| The campaign is still running strategically on Columbia Games' excellent 'Richard III' board-game. The map is actually shown above, marked-up to show how things currently stand. |
The situation above is a little recap of the last place we left it. In the last in-campaign battle we played, Warwick was holding both London and King Henry VI. One catastrophic defeat later, and Warwick held neither - to say nothing of having to flee into exile with only a tiny band of followers. His spectacular defeat puts the invading Lancastrian faction back into power in the capital and at court, which means if Edward of York has any hope of enforcing his claim to the throne, fast action is called for.
The map above shows the situation clearly, as the Yorkists are fast becoming the filling in a Lancaster-sandwich. Edward has the largest Yorkist army which he raised in Wales and has brought it back into England around Gloucester, but he's too far from either Lancastrian army to engage quite yet. The second Yorkist army, under the earls of Rutland and Salisbury, will be crushed if it remains standing-still by both the Lancastrians combined. As such, the course open to them is clear - they will need to move themselves against the smaller northern Lancastrian army, positioned around Derby.
This is a risky move as crossing the line of the river Trent forces them to discard their own levies to move fast, meeting on little better than even terms. However, leaving the pro-Lancastrian north in enemy hands means that delay will merely strengthen the red-rose faction and weaken their own chances. Time to re-fight the army they beat once before at Thoroton, and make it fatal this time!
I'll shortly be posting the battle photos and report, which shall be the first full game I've tried using the 'Peter Pig' rules "Bloody Barons."
Sunday, October 28, 2012
Painting My Way To 1815
| The Anglo-Allied infantry, in full, sitting in its storage box. The only way to paint 20-odd brigades in one go! |
The deliveries for the French 1815 army are complete, so it seems only sensible to turn attention back to the progress to date on the initial force: the Anglo-Allied army! Last time it was shown, I had just gone through all the infantry and painted all the coats the correct colour. Since then, I have done the trousers. (Bizarre fact: virtually all of the units have grey trousers, which was something I hadn't picked up on before. Well, I certainly have noticed it now!)
To keep myself engaged in a dull moment, I even worked it all out for the number of trousers needed - 300 pairs! Six-bloody-hundred-legs! Of that, 200 are now done - all the infantry, leaving only cavalry and gun crews.
Next, I have gone onto black paint - which is actually an annoying one. Coats can be knocked in easily (effectively a base-coat, as you don't need to stay outside straps & cross-belts, as these are best painted over the coat later.) Trousers, similarly, aren't too bad as long as you don't get a figure with an awkward stance, because they are all one area on the figure - one brush will do for all! Black is more awkward, mainly because it is for different areas. Specifically, shoes; packs; cartridge-boxes; bayonets; heads & shakos.
Instead of doing each set of figures through all these steps to completion in one go (which proved to be very fiddly and slow-moving, thus discouraging) I decided to do all of the various bits one by one. So, I did all the heads, then all the feet, then all the cartridge-boxes etc. This might sound like a pretty minor distinction, but I've actually found it very helpful. I seem to do better at painting when it's just mindless, repetitive stuff you can 'switch off' while you're doing it, or let your thoughts wander to other things. Having to check over strips of figures to make sure you've not missed a bit, like the end of a cartridge-box visible only from the side, is a bit too demanding of attention. The detailing to pick this up can be done at the very end, when the figures are 'reviewed' just prior to varnishing.
As such I've repeatedly gone through the infantry stack but without it really feeling like a drag. This is a curious quirk, and also probably explains a lot of why I always struggle most with non-uniform painting jobs where that repetitive style doesn't really fit (this from a man with Confederate infantry and Medieval troops among his collection...)
After this 'black' process is done, I've moved on through the flesh-coloured paint to do the faces and hands of them all. At present I'm roughly halfway through painting all the muskets brown. This actually takes me most of the way through the painting process, as the remaining steps are generally less elaborate and more about local areas - the figures have definitely made their big graduation from 'undercoated figures with a few patches of colour' through to 'painted figures that merely lack a few bits of detailing.'
| And for the future, this is the current state of the French army - Still on its sprues, heaped up on the sink following a dip in some soapy water, to remove any releasing oil from the casting-moulds. |
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